Rules of the Road

July 30, 2010 (Can you tell I've been around a lot of Americans lately?)

While on the road this summer, Marie (my housemate) and I have learned a few things about travel.  At first glance, it seems that Tanzanians do not abide by the rules of the road.  Or at least not by any we understand!  But in our random cross-country adventure travels throughout this past summer (or winter, as we know it here!), we’ve discovered that this “no rules” thing just isn’t right.  It’s true that Tanzanians do not necessarily abide by the rules that we Westerners hold in such high regard… but there’s a complete set of rules here that we just didn’t get, until we started to watch.  And listen.  And learn.  

The first time I ever drove our car.  I was excited and just a bit nervous!

For instance, you would think that using your lights, even during the daytime, would benefit everyone.  It turns out that here, using your lights in the day light hours only communicates “hatari" or "danger.”  And if you happen to forget, people will open and close their fingers at you repeatedly in a flashing motion (this could be an old Imam walking along the street or a little kid!), or flash their headlights, to help you remember the correct status of these important communication devices.  In fact, there was one time at dusk when I figured it was finally ok and appropriate, for the safety of all, to turn on my lights.  A few minutes later I got pulled over by a cop to see if everything was alright.  Whoops.  I couldn't get him to tell me when to turn on my lights, only that this was not the appropriate time. Ahh...

But wait!  There was a flash of someone’s high beams, and my lights aren’t on!  We decided we need a list of options this might be communicating.  Some of the ones we’ve discovered include:

• There are traffic polici (police) coming up in your lane.  Slow down!
• Accident (or large gathering of people, or bad traffic, or something) ahead… slow down!
• Something is wrong with your vehicle.  Pull over, get out and check.
  Pretty much: head’s up, slow down and watch out!

Also, along the way, we’ve discovered that passing vehicles is an important but not always pleasant task.  Yet the lovely people of the Land of Tanz have devised a way to make this task both safe AND enjoyable!  When getting ready to pass a vehicle (on the right, of course – we drive on the left here!), you slowly move over and put your right turn signal on.  This means, “I’d like to pass you.  Do you think this might be a good idea?”  Here’s where the courteousness of other drivers comes in…  if the person in front of you can see that it is safe to pass, they will let you know this by using their left turn signal.  This means, “I can see further than you, and I’d love to help you out.  The way is safe.  Go right ahead and I’ll slow down a bit if needed to make sure you’re safe.”  If it’s NOT safe, they might communicate this by flashing their RIGHT turn signal… or by waving their hand up and down outside their window, or by using their break lights repeatedly.  We can’t be sure, but we’re getting the feeling
that all of these actions mean, “WAIT!  It’s not safe.  Keep back, and I’ll let you know when an opportune moment arrives for you to pass me.”  Or something like that, anyway. :)

Of course, you always have to be sure that they aren’t signaling to say that they really are turning… but that's just little details.  We needn't be so finicky!

Also, if you ever happen to be driving along a Tanzanian road (which I know many of you do quite often!), and see a few trees cut down and laid across your side of the road, this is also a courteous and friendly note to let you know that some poor soul has broken down ahead.  In Dar, they only use the pre-requisited orange triangles we have to carry in our cars at all times for when we might break down… and maybe a few stray leaves to signal our stationary presence, as well.  But it seems the further you get out of the Big D, the bigger the branches or trees people can gather to place in piles along the road, warning you of an upcoming impediment to your travels.

Last but not least, we've learned that these rules are important to know - if you are outside of Dar.  The closer you get to the big city, the less courteous, and more pushy... the less friendly, and more perturbed... the less communicative by lights, and the more laying on of horns... things get.  In a nutshell, the above rules are great, but they're gentle presence has yet to make it into the city limits!

I know there is much more to add... but my brain is fogging up.  For all of you who DO spend time on the road here in this beautifully crazy country, let me know what I'm missing so I can add to this list!  I'll try to return to this project sometime soon... :)

Imagine hoards of these guys on both sides of your car... and remember to lock your doors when you're forced to come to a stop!  True, one bag of tangerines is about $1.60, and they are DELICIOUS outside of Dar, but these salesmen's persuasive techniques can get a bit overwhelming at times!